IVIV surfing on the natch (NYTimes article)

Doug Millison dougmillison at comcast.net
Mon Sep 28 16:13:01 CDT 2009


http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/27/us/27surfer.html

Surfing as Rehab for Those Fighting Addiction

By MALIA WOLLAN
Published: September 26, 2009
SANTA CRUZ, Calif. — The first time Darryl Virostko surfed waves as  
tall as three-story buildings at Mavericks, the legendary surf spot  
some 50 miles north of here, he was high on acid.

It was not the only drug Mr. Virostko, 37, would take during his  
surfing career. Even as he was earning a reputation as one of the most  
fearless surfers in the world — wining the Mavericks competition, the  
Super Bowl of big-wave surfing, three consecutive times — he was also  
becoming an alcoholic and methamphetamine addict, dependencies that  
propelled him to success at surfing but eventually crushed him.

“With meth, you’re moving a million miles a minute,” said Mr.  
Virostko, whose nickname is Flea. “You’re psyched to catch any wave  
you can.”  … …



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