IVIV surfing on the natch (NYTimes article)
Doug Millison
dougmillison at comcast.net
Mon Sep 28 16:13:01 CDT 2009
http://www.nytimes.com/2009/09/27/us/27surfer.html
Surfing as Rehab for Those Fighting Addiction
By MALIA WOLLAN
Published: September 26, 2009
SANTA CRUZ, Calif. — The first time Darryl Virostko surfed waves as
tall as three-story buildings at Mavericks, the legendary surf spot
some 50 miles north of here, he was high on acid.
It was not the only drug Mr. Virostko, 37, would take during his
surfing career. Even as he was earning a reputation as one of the most
fearless surfers in the world — wining the Mavericks competition, the
Super Bowl of big-wave surfing, three consecutive times — he was also
becoming an alcoholic and methamphetamine addict, dependencies that
propelled him to success at surfing but eventually crushed him.
“With meth, you’re moving a million miles a minute,” said Mr.
Virostko, whose nickname is Flea. “You’re psyched to catch any wave
you can.” … …
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