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Once the dust cap is removed you'll see a clip that holds in the seal. Remove
this with a small screwdriver.
Now you need to use the lower fork leg to hammer the other pieces out. With the
fork leg firmly in the vise by the caliper bracket, grasp the upper leg and ram
it out until it comes off.
Once it's off you'll see the fork bushings, a washer, and the fork seal exposed.
The fork bushings have a split in them for removal. Pry them apart with your fingers
and slide them off. You can refer back to this photo for the order in which they go on.
Now that everything is disassembled, we install the Gold Valves. I don't show how to
build the valve stack here, because that depends on your specs. The instructions come
with the Gold Valves, and the specs can be found on the Race Tech website.
On the cartridge there are some dimples that will need to be drilled out so you can
remove the valving. See circled here:
Drill out with the bit specified in the Gold Valve instructions. I think it was 3/8" but
check your instructions! Drill until just through the steel casing. It's ok if you
mar the aluminum on the valve a bit.
Once both dimples are drilled out, screw the bottom bolt into the valve and use a
mallet to tap it down into the tube.
Remove the bolt.
Now that it's down in the tube you'll see a circlip that keeps it from coming out.
use a tiny screwdriver or a dentist pick to remove the circlip.
Now, on the other end of the cartridge, on the damper rod, you'll see a circlip above
a plastic bottom-out piece. Remove this circlip.
Once you remove it, you can slide the plastic piece up and expose a second circlip.
Remove this too. **You will leave these circlips and plastic part out for good!**
Now that the circlips are removed, you can use the damper tube to hammer out the
compression valve. Tap gently until it pops out. **IMPORTANT! Now that it's
disassembled, you need to deburr the holes you drilled in the tube. If you don't,
they'll cut the o-rings on the valves and cause them not to work properly!**
