VLVL: surfing culture

Doug Millison millison at online-journalist.com
Fri Dec 4 15:24:02 CST 1998


http://www.nytimes.com/yr/mo/day/news/national/calif-surf.html

Surfing Devotees Revel in Challenge of Unique Waves
[...]
""The waves come in pulses," Washburn said. "Today was one of the days when
you had to know what you're doing. I let 50 waves pass. Thanksgiving was
amazing. I gave up Thanksgiving dinner to be here. I'd give up most
anything."



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