Did the Irish invent Surfing?

John Carvill johncarvill at gmail.com
Sun Aug 30 07:35:55 CDT 2009


Tribalism, turf wars, and Californian crypto-fascism:

"Few anthropological groups are as tribal and turf-conscious as
surfers, be they Californian, Hawaiian, Australian, South African,
British or even Irish - a people who already know a thing or two about
turf wars.

Go to any renowned surfing beach and you'll always find that resentful
remnant of original surfer-inhabitants whose halcyon adolescence of
sun-kissed, carefree wavewalking has long since been eclipsed by the
world's discovery of their once enviably uncrowded breaks and peaks.
Strangers and outsiders are usually greeted by them with the
chip-on-the-shoulder salutation, "Locals rule!"

Right. I bet that's what those Hawaiians said to Captain Cook when
they bashed in his head with that rock: "Goddamn limey stepped into my
wave, brah!" Wallop...."

http://www.guardian.co.uk/film/2009/aug/29/surfing-films-bustin-down-the-door



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