Did the Irish invent Surfing?

rich richard.romeo at gmail.com
Sun Aug 30 10:21:26 CDT 2009


more of  this locals rule bit

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/01/23/sports/othersports/23surfing.html?_r=1

SUNSET BEACH, Hawaii — They are known as the Wolfpak or simply “the
boys.” They use fear and their fists to command respect in the surf
along the North Shore of Oahu, a seven-mile stretch of some of the
world’s most renowned waves. At the celebrated Banzai Pipeline, they
determine which waves go to whom, and punish those who breach their
code of respect for local residents and the waves.

The Wolfpak formed a decade ago when Alexander moved to the North
Shore and joined his childhood friend Kai Garcia, a former
professional surfer and jujitsu champion known as Kaiborg for his
fearsome superhuman reputation. Alexander had recently been released
from prison after serving time for assault.

“It was crowded when I came here,” Alexander said about Pipeline. “A
lot of people in the water, not much respect. Where I grew up on
Kauai, you respect everybody in the water, especially your elders.
Don’t step out of line. We just brought that mentality over here.”

On Sun, Aug 30, 2009 at 8:35 AM, John Carvill<johncarvill at gmail.com> wrote:
> Tribalism, turf wars, and Californian crypto-fascism:
>
> "Few anthropological groups are as tribal and turf-conscious as
> surfers, be they Californian, Hawaiian, Australian, South African,
> British or even Irish - a people who already know a thing or two about
> turf wars.
>
> Go to any renowned surfing beach and you'll always find that resentful
> remnant of original surfer-inhabitants whose halcyon adolescence of
> sun-kissed, carefree wavewalking has long since been eclipsed by the
> world's discovery of their once enviably uncrowded breaks and peaks.
> Strangers and outsiders are usually greeted by them with the
> chip-on-the-shoulder salutation, "Locals rule!"
>
> Right. I bet that's what those Hawaiians said to Captain Cook when
> they bashed in his head with that rock: "Goddamn limey stepped into my
> wave, brah!" Wallop...."
>
> http://www.guardian.co.uk/film/2009/aug/29/surfing-films-bustin-down-the-door
>




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