GR translation: pipesmoke-and-cabbage café

[Mike Jing]

V569.25-31, P579.19-26   Slothrop returns from the brown back room of a
pipesmoke-and-cabbage café, and an hour’s game of hammer-and-forge
with—every boy’s dream—TWO healthy young ladies in summer dresses and
woodsoled shoes to find the crowd begun to coagulate into clumps of three
and four. Oh, shit. Not now, come on . . . . Tight aching across his
asshole, head and stomach inflated with oat mash and summer beer, Slothrop
sits on a pile of nets and tries, fat chance, to will himself alert.

The published translation interpreted "cabbage" here as slang for woman,
which would make the "café" a brothel. That can't be right, can it?

I thought it just describes the smell of the place, is that correct?