SoCal

[Terrance F. Flaherty]

Long Island surfers know that off the coast of Fire Island is a ship
wreck-- The Kenosha.

North shore boys were sailors not surfers. Whale museums, and cold spring
harbor eugenics night-mares, happy houses, Masonic temples, and a mansion
for every mover and shaker in American history, and and in the middle,
lake Ronkonkama--where an Indian chief-distreesed after being scorned by
his bride to be-he dove to the bottom of the "bottomless" lake and his
head was found in the great south bay. Now Joe Campbell, how does that
Indian myth fit into Orphic/Pythagorian metempsychosis. "Oh rocks," Leo,
rocks can make bigger lefts and rights as every Montauk surfer knows.

"argus." wrote:

> >What they say about surfing is true, then, eh?
> >
> >Chris
>
> Hee.  Well, there is something amazingly philosophy-inducing
> about surfing.  I cant think of a sport that takes so little
> equipment and puts you in direct contact with such a massive
> force.  Im not afraid of anything and after being rolled by
> 1000s of gallons of water I almost couldnt force myself to go
> back out.  The best comparison i can think of in terms of
> grace v. natural force is dragon fighting.  :>  It havent surfed much.
>
> Iv actually *just* moved back to the East coast for a year, and Ive
> been thinking about the line from that Chicago journalists column
> that got made into a song, "Everybody's free to wear sunscreen"...
> The line says, "Live in New York for a year, but leave before it
> makes you hard.  Live in Northern California for a year, but leave
> before it makes you soft. "  Pynchon's done both.  But while i
> definately read an "authentic" NoCal from him, his New York in MD
> certainly didnt feel like NYC to me.  It's, as, not Hard enough.
> (V i'd say it felt like NYC, tho.)  Perhaps you folks up there
> would like to comment.  :>
>
> susanargus